Güzelyurt a great escape from central Cappadocia

Güzelyurt a great escape from central Cappadocia

Güzelyurt in Aksaray offers the magical beauty of central Cappadocia without the crowds. The town boasts an ancient underground city (pictured above) and unique architecture






When planning vacations in Cappadocia the majority of people head to the well-known and much visited tourist areas of Göreme, Nevşehir and Ortahısar.

But, far away from the tour bus routes, and so far undiscovered by the camera-toting hordes of day-tripping sightseers, is the quiet, slow-paced village of Güzelyurt. With its backdrop of snow-capped Hasan Dağ, it is a picturesque spot year round.
Tools and ceramic shards found at nearby excavations indicate that this area has been settled since the Chalcolithic Period (roughly 4500-3500 B.C.). With its rich farmland and readily available water, this part of Cappadocia has been occupied by Hittites, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans. Now a part of Aksaray province, the town boasts a population of around 4,000.
Historically, Güzelyurt played an important role in Christianity in the region. In 385, Byzantine Emperor Theodosius commissioned a church to be built in the town in honor of St. Gregory, who had resided in the area. Considered a saint in both Eastern and Western Christianity, his work still influences modern theologians. Known as Karballa in earlier times, the surrounding hillsides are filled with churches and this was an important place for worship. During the Seljuk rule, the town’s name was changed to Gelveri. It was a mainly Greek town in the past, and the residents were part of the population exchange between the Turkish Republic and Greece in 1924. In the 1960s, the name was changed once again, this time to Güzelyurt.
While this village is, as yet, not widely visited, it is, in fact, a perfect place for a quiet, relaxed and low-key holiday. It is also the perfect jumping off point for trips to the Ilhara and Monastery valleys. Nearby are many churches and underground cities that are largely unexplored by tourists. The village itself is worth the time to wander through and explore all the tiny streets clinging to the hillside, especially in the evening as families return home from the fields, often bearing freshly picked vegetables, fruits and herbs in tidy bundles.
The local architecture of the old part of the village is unique. The stonemasons of Gelveri were famous during the heyday of the area, and their skill is reflected in the antique houses that are still in use today. The delicate carvings on the stonework and wooden doors that remain are testament to the artisans’ dedication to their craft.
About 15 kilometers away is the Ilhara Valley, with its easy walking trails leading to churches and living quarters cut into the cliff faces. Winding for 14 kilometers, the tree-shaded valley is an excellent trekking route, even for beginning hikers or those with children along for the shorter part of the walk. With over 100 historic sites in the valley, 14 of the most stunning churches are along clearly marked paths and are easily accessible. The churches were constructed between the fourth and 10th centuries, and the frescoes reflect the changing styles of the times.
Nearer to Güzelyurt is the Monastery Valley, a five-and-a-half-kilometer-long area that also contains many houses and churches cut into the cliffs. As with the Ilhara Valley, this walk runs alongside a river and is also lined with trees. One of the most visited sites there is St. Gregorios Church, thought to have been built in 385. Named after one of the saints of Cappadocia, it is at the beginning of the valley and is an easy walk down from the village. Restored in 1835, it was used as a mosque after the population exchange of 1924.
Yüksek Kilise, or Analipsis Church, sits on the top of a high, rocky hill near Güzelyurt. Built on the site of a Bronze Age settlement, the church was built during the 19th century. Dominating the view from the village towards Mount Hassan, the ruins of the church are worth the three- kilometer trip around the lake and up the hillside.
Just six kilometers outside the village, near the hamlet of Sivrihisar on the Çiflik-Niğde road, is the Red Church or Kızlı Kilise. Built in the sixth century from local stones, it was constructed with four columns and a high dome. Currently undergoing restoration, it is still an impressive sight, situated amidst the fertile farmlands where St. Gregory is said to have lived out his last days. The frescoes have faded and worn away over the years, but the parts that remain retain their bright, vibrant colors.
Since tourists are still unaware of Güzelyurt and the treasures within a short distance from the village center, there are not a large number of facilities in town. There are several small pensions in the town, as well as the Hotel Karballa -- a 19th century Greek monastery that is now a delightful boutique hotel offering fantastic views and equally fantastic cuisine. Restaurant choices are limited, but near the town square there are a handful of tiny restaurants. The best choice is the Kalvari Restaurant, run by Kerim, who was raised in the area and is always ready to offer up advice on the best sites in the area.
Güzelyurt offers visitors a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the tourist centers in Cappadocia. With its slower pace it is a delightful place to unwind and enjoy nature. While there is no nightlife to speak of, the central square is a gathering place for tourists and locals alike to sit and while away their time.
For more information on the area:
www.guzelyurt.gov.tr/eng/